This walk takes its name from the two private estates that it passes through Gorehambury and Childwickbury, both are the very model of traditional country seats with an air of former times about them. Tied cottages are nestled amid farmed lands and managed woodland as bucolic locals go about their seemingly idylic existence (?). Or so it appears as one is minded more of the countryside of a Thomas Hardy novel than that of semi-suburban Hertfordshire. This walk is around 11 miles and takes between three and four hours depending on how hard you push yourself.
The walk begins from the car park at Verulamium, although you could begin on the outskirts of Harpenden, both are marked on the map as potential parking points. Verulamium requires payment to leave your car, but it was a few pounds for an all day ticket, so I didn’t have to worry about rushing back for a set time.
Leaving the car park you cross A4147 Hemel Hempstead Road to enter the Roman Theatre. There is a gatehouse for the Gorhambury Estate and Theatre, but this is a public bridleway and there is no charge for entry. The road continues to the North West along the main thoroughfare through the Roman city and the fields to the left and right are all part of the Roman city, half of which makes up the Verulamium Park. As you enter the band of trees after several hundred yards, be sure to look back to your left to see the remains of the Roma Wall, still standing after nearly 2000 years and the defensive ditch that surrounds the city. I wish my builder was that reliable!
Note the Pre Mill House as you turn off the main drive and head down towards the Ver. These water meadows are still known as the Pre, the Norman word for meadow, hinting at another era of the city’s history. Make sure you look back over your right shoulder to get the clear view of the Abbey Church which dominates the city skyline. The main body of the church was constructed in the reign of William the Conqueror but the abbey was founded earlier by King Offa of Mercia (yes, the bloke with the Welsh dyke) and the flag of Mercia, a yellow saltire on a blue field is still retained as the flag of St Albans. Which is a bit of history chucked in for free.
After crossing the Ver near the Mill, the path turns left and wanders alongside the River, taking the walker to the Redbourne Road where a quick look left, right and left again is required as you are crossing live traffic. It goes without saying that care should be taken!
The path quickly resumes a more civilised nature as it passes past some of the lovely cottages of the Gorhambury Estate before climbing up along the banks of the Ver to Shafford Mill and Stud. A truly picturesque spot where one could easily be in Dorset or Devon and that feeling continues as the walk continues through rolling farm land with the Redbourne Road across the fields on your left.
Arriving at the less than beautiful Redbournebury rubbish recycling plant you can prepare yourself for a right turn after a few more hundred yards. I normally try to avoid roads, but with the land surrounding being private estates the number of footpaths are limited, so this one is unavoidable. However, the good news is that traffic is very light along here (I didn’t see a single car as I walked up Beesonend Lane. It’s a bit of an uphill climb at first but levels out after the prominent kink in the road and a pleasant flat stretch into the outskirts of Harpenden is easy going.
Arriving at the Harpenden Road beings in back to the 21st century and for a while it is necessary to use the footpath along the side of the road, possibly the least attractive part of this walk. However, it’s not for long, less then a mile, before you turn into the Childwickbury Estate. Childwick Bury House is a rather impressive pile, largely built in the 18th century and is most well known for having been home to film director Stanley Kubrick up to his death. Anyway what I find most impressive is the small hamlet of Childwick Green which was home to the estate workers and is a real chocolate box image. I played cricket there once as a young man and came over all Brideshead. It still has the feel that you expect Miss Marple to emerge from the small church.
The walk through the estate takes you past the main house which is incredibly grand, but the parkland around it is equally impressive. The path is well marked and clear and eventually takes you through onto what seems to part of a cycle network. Watch out for our lycra-clad friends and they seem less likely to watch out for us pedestrians!
The path continues down along the edge of the golf course at Batchwood Hall, no longer a gentleman’s country residence but a very modern mix of golf, fitness and nightclub, although more recently it has been a COVID jab station par excellence.
The final leg of the walk is downhill to Batchwood Drive and then a quick final leg alongside the Hemel Hempstead Road to the car park and a chance to rest our weary legs.
As walks go, this one has a lot going for it. Much of it is pretty flat, the paths are often driveways to the large residences so are never going to be too muddy, a real consideration when winter is upon us. Both of the private estates are well-maintained and everything is well signed. The walk is pretty dog-friendly is you fancy taking a pooch along but do be careful when on the road sections.
Top Tip: Get yourself an Ordnance Survey Map in 1:25,000 scale. 1:50,000 are next to useless for walkers. St Albans and a huge area around it are covered by the OS Explorer Map 182. You’ll find enough walks on that sheet alone to keep you going for years!
Walking Around St Albans 